Sunday, 9th June, 2024
On this glorious day, we will be spending it putting the house & garden to bed ready for going away – setting up automatic routines such as watering, lighting, monitoring, etc.. My Under-Gardener has been set on trimming the hedge before completing the packing. We don’t fly until tomorrow evening but like to get everything done beforehand.
The news about Dr. Michael Moseley is not good as rather expected. His body has been found not far from the beach where he set off to walk back to his house on the Dodecanese island of Symi. The fragility of life is so shocking. Delaying things, denying things, ignoring things in the brevity that is a life is utterly foolish. Act while you can. Don’t be afraid of breaking eggs. Paradise is full of omelettes.
Looking forward to our return to The Electra Palace Hotel, Thessaloniki. We are off tomorrow and that is a few weeks later than last year which explains why the temperatures are so much hotter. We have a nice suite overlooking the Platea Aristotelous and the Thermaikos Gulf with its wonderful sunsets. The hotel has an indoor and an outdoor pool as well as a Gym. What more could one need?
Monday, 10th June, 2024
Lovely day as the world was freshened up by a good rainfall over night. Blue sky now although not as warm as I’d expect June to be. Before we prepare to leave, we have a handyman firm coming first thing to quote us for a list of about 10 jobs needed for smartening up. The rain has meant that I don’t need to water before leaving so just getting travelling things together is all we have to do.
My Butler has a travel bag specifically designated to be stored in a cupboard in which essential items are kept – Passports, Euros, Plug Adaptors, etc. plus a tick-off list of jobs that must be completed before we drive off to the airport. It is a quick and reassuring process.
I wanted to tell you something that happened to me yesterday, Dear Reader. I was in the Gym, watching a fairly pappy film on Amazon Prime called: I’ll Find You. It is set in 1930s Poland where Jews are starting to feel the persecution of the Right Wing populace. Hitler is already a thing and the world is allowing the forward creep of Naziism. You might even see some parallels with current times. It has been distracting me while I exercise. Nothing more … until something happened.
Forgive me if I have written some of this before but it is relevant. In 1967, my Grandfather gave me a wind-up gramophone with a pack of steel needles and a collection of 78 vinyl records which featured Operatic Arias and included Handel’s Largo which, when I played it, hit me like a dagger to the heart. I was 16 years old, going to discos, meeting girls and listening to the Moody Blues: Go Now on Pirate Radio. Suddenly, I realised there was an art form out there I knew nothing about – Classical Music, Opera. I determined that I should learn about it although that was put on hold while I was away at College.
In the mid-1970s, rudderless and lost, I was fervently going for self education. I did a Literature Degree in the evenings while I taught during the day. I did a Masters Research Degree after that. At the same time, I was buying Art books to learn about the History of Art. I was buying cassettes of Classical Music and playing them on a battery-powered cassette player during the Power Strikes. I bought a monthly Discovering Opera magazine that introduced me to a number of Operas and composers/librettists accompanied by an exemplary cassette each month. I was shutting out the real world while cramming my head with learning of the cultural world.
Of course, we all have to let the real world in eventually but, by then, I was well on the way to a new understanding of the culture I had missed. My wife bought me a copy of Handel’s Largo which you will already know, Dear Reader, is the opening Aria of Handel’s opera, Xerxes. I played it constantly on a loop, driving everyone else mad.
Yesterday, I was in the Gym watching this nondescript film set in 1938 Poland and a young lad started to sing. He was pitch perfect and his song was … Handel’s Largo. I felt the emotions of more than 50 years well up in my chest. Fortunately, I was on the exercise bike as I found myself sobbing uncontrollably. I could do nothing as the waves of the 1960s and 1970s crashed over me. It is astonishing that music can do this but also wonderful in its power and evocativeness.
It has left me with a deep sadness. Ridiculous, I know, but I am travelling to Gatwick with a burden of unresolved sadness deep inside. This is no way to go on a trip. Get a grip!
Tuesday, 11th June, 2024
Travelling in the early hours has real benefits but it had a surprisingly chilly downside this morning. Could not believe Gatwick carpark at midnight. It felt freezing – actually 7C/45F – but in June?
The airport was very quiet and we went through Security and passport control in less than three minutes. Unfortunately, the Executive Lounge – Flight Lounge – wasn’t as clever and we have noted the importance of booking a better one earlier next time.
When we flew to Greece from Manchester for the first time in 1980, the flight time was 4.5 hrs.. Today, the flight time from London to Thessaloniki was just 3.0 hrs.. We flew on time and arrived on time. Off the plane in minutes and out to a taxi. Check-in time at our hotel is 3.00 pm.. We arrived at 11.30 am and were shown straight to our Suite on the top floor overlooking the bay.
House wine and chocolates on the table. TV welcome in the Lounge and the Bedroom. We showered, changed and went down to the Executive Lounge which caters for Suite holders. Everything is ‘free’ whenever you want. We asked for Club Sandwiches, Smoked Salmon Bagels, Greek Salad plus red and white wine. It was delightful.
Out on the Balcony of our Suite, the temperature had hit 37C/99F and the view was wonderful. We watched Politics Live on BBC2 as we would at home, discussed the Tories disastrous position then opened a local bottle of Kretikos white wine and …. the rest is history and oblivion.
Health warnings are being put out tonight about the effect of the extreme temperatures on health and well being. We are experienced in these things but, as a liitle old lady told me a few months ago, she struggled with temperatures as she got older. Mind you, she also dyed her grey hair blonde so everyone is different. I will easily complete my exercise routine today but we will walk out to restaurants this evening and then catch up on some sleep before embracing a new day tomorrow.
Wednesday, 12th June, 2024
Having not slept for two days, didn’t wake up until 7.00 am (5.00 am UK) this morning. My phone says the temperature outside is only 28C/82F. It looks delicious. Strangely, overnight they have begun to install a sandpit/beach in the centre of Aristotle Square.
After a shower and a cup of tea, we’ve got the normal, hotel dilemma. We never eat Breakfast at home. In a hotel, it feels like an illicit treat and something you’ve paid for and shouldn’t waste. Your body says, You don’t need it. Your head says, You’re on holiday and you’ve paid for it. Go for it. The head almost always wins. It will today. The buffet breakfast is wonderful here and covers everything you could expect and a lot more.
Breakfast finished and now, drinking coffee on the balcony and regretting eating breakfast. Have to go out for a long walk to work off …. breakfast. With the temperature already at 30C by 9.30 am and forecast to be around 37C/99F for most of the day, we are going to have to be careful. With my new hat on, we are going to explore the restaurant district for Supper tonight but I was rather enchanted by last night’s venue. Lovely people!
Today is the annual Reunion of the men who were in the pioneering year of my all-girls training college. It will be held in Leeds in a chilly 15C/59F. I’m sure the camaraderie will be warmer. I received a Whatsapp in the middle of the night here from my old friend, JohnR to say he would convey my best wishes to the merry band. My friend, Kevin, will video-conference me between Leeds – Thessaloniki so that I can participate at a distance. There is no substitute for hugging people but it is the next, best thing.
To men of a certain age …. lets say, in their 70s – Françoise Hardy, French pop singer and fashion muse, was the previous generation’s Bridget Bardot. I must admit, she didn’t really do it for me although her voice was rather seductive but she did for many young men. Anyway, it is a sign of the times that it is reported this morning she has died at the age of 80 having been diagnosed with Lymphatic Cancer 10 years ago. 80!
Thursday, 13th June, 2024
We are 2 hours ahead of UK time here and, although our phones and watches change immediately, it always takes a few days to adjust the body clock. The temperature over night didn’t fall below 27C/81F and we were out in the Square eating ice cream at 1.am. I set my phone radio to come on at 6.00 am (Greek Time) but we stayed in bed until 7.00 this morning. We are forecast to be a little cooler today peaking at just 35C/95F.
Back in Brighton, yesterday, the scorching Summer just went on. It is such a difficult time for UK holiday resorts in particular where suddenly everywhere looks like Wales and UK residents generally have trouble in raising their soggy spirits. It is incredible this year and not even that warm. This time last year we were in baking hot sunshine in Sussex. Apparently, the Met.Office are blaming it on the Gulf Stream.
Yesterday, I missed the Reunion of the small, male cohort from my year at Training College. Actually, there were only about 6 originals present and the numbers were padded out by the year immediately after us. It is testament to our time that so many have already died. A number are too ill and/or incapacitated to travel so that an already small band of brothers is rapidly disappearing rather like the D-Day members in France recently.
My friend, Kevin, was there and kindly kept me up to speed. I have to say, the photos always make it look old and staid which isn’t too inviting.
Yesterday, I reported that the centre of classical Aristotle Square was being turned into a sandpit/beach. Wrong. Today we’ve learned that the installation is actually a Beach Volley Ball Court for an important tournament at the weekend. We can watch from our balcony. Now you wish you’d come don’t you, Dear Reader?
We are really enjoying this hotel. The staff are wonderful and can’t do enough for us. We had Room Service last night while we watched the Leaders Interview and the food was wonderful. Angus Beef Burgers with a Caesar Salad and a bottle of House Red was served up for us in our Suite as we watched the debate and the quality was wonderful.
Friday, 14th June, 2024
Yesterday was incredibly humid and sticky. It made walking hard work and drinking essential. Unfortunately, it ought not be alcoholic. I always tend to forget that. I am drinking too much I know and I’m going to have to have a spell of abstinence …. when I get home.
We have done lots of lovely things here already but the highlight was a new restaurant for Supper. We did walk for a couple of very draining hours yesterday and it was then that we found a new street full of restaurants. The menus are posted outside and you can soon tell from them how progressive they are.
Having spent more than 40 years eating out in Greece, there are very few surprises, very few ‘new’ dishes we haven’t tried and cooked ourselves. Last night we had the most wonderful starter of Μπάλες μάραθου/Fennel Burgers with a mustard & yoghurt dip.
Incredibly cheap to eat out here. Last night we ordered two starters, two main courses of Lamb Shank, a half litre of House Red and a half litre of House White. We were absolutely stuffed and the restaurant sent over ice cream & biscuits and glasses of Limoncello (Lemon Liqueur) and the bill was just €48.00/£40.00. Even so, it was quite hard to walk home.
This morning the Beach Volleyball Tournament in Aristotelous Square beneath our balcony is under way. Girls in minute bikinis are entertaining the early spectators. My wife has decided that she urgently needs to go shopping.
Actually, we rapidly walked past sports girls in thongs and on to the Cultural Centre – the old Port where warehouses that once stored tobacco, corn, etc., now house a Digital Dali Exhibition, A History of Greek Fashion Exhibition and an Exhibition of Female Photography.
This is Greece. It is all fairly basic … but they are trying and you have to give them credit.
Saturday, 15th June, 2024
A little cooler this morning – just 26C/79F – so we had breakfast on the terrace. It is much more comfortable for the old people now the heatwave has moderated.
Just checked the cameras at home in Sussex and … it’s raining. At least the plants will be happy. Going out for a walk down the coastal path this morning. Before that, I have to accompany my wife to the Supermarket for some sun tan lotion.
Just a few 100 metres from the hotel is a really well stock if small supermarket but before that, we come across this:
It is still a feature of Greek cities like Athens and Thessaloniki to find poor people begging to get by. This old lady is a widow and probably survives on the bare minimum of government support. It is testament to how common this is that few even notice her as she pretends to sleep at the road crossing where people naturally congregate.
We went out for a 2hr return walk down the coast road just as the temperature reached 32C/90F. I was saturated by the time we got back and, as we re-entered the hotel for a shower and change, one of my Yorkshire friend was contacting me to exercise caution. They had been reading a national newspaper report about tourist fatalities during the heatwave. I must admit, I would never consider myself a tourist in Greece nowadays and we generally know how far we can push it. Anyway, there are so many sportsmen dying in their late 50s and early 60s at the moment that I feel incredibly lucky to have got this far.